If one description in archery REALLY bugs me it's the talk of 'bow tuning'. If the bow was a radio or video player or even a musical instrument then I'd have no complaint, but it isn't. We can try to 'match' the archer to the bow and the bow to the arrow, but it may not be possible! Why?

It's not my intention to teach you HOW to do this 'tuning' stuff but let you into some observations on the subject. Now the way it was explained to me was this:- The bow stores energy in the limbs and when the string leaves the fingers (for those of us who have not gone to the 'dark side'), the arrow gets an almighty kick up the backside. As the front end is a little slow in responding then the arrow develops as slight 'bend' before the front starts to move. How much it bends could be called the 'dynamic spine' of the arrow. As the arrow continues on it's way this 'bend' becomes an oscillation which deviates the arrow on it's proposed path! It's a natural phenomenon.

If, for example, the arrow was made of the finest thin aluminium tubing, would it be able to absorb the boot up the backside? Probably not as it would bend or snap, having a weak 'spine'. Then on the other hand if the arrow was made of solid titanium it would easily take the thump but it would never bend round the bow. The 'posh' within archery often call this effect 'the archer's paradox'. Also the arrow is unlikely to get far due to it's physical weight!

Well it's this. NO WAY do we tune the bow. At best it's arrow matching and we can only try to remove the oscillation that exists in flight. That's where the button comes in! By delicate adjustment it MAY be possible to reduce that fledgling initial bend so the first oscillation is at a minimum.

Get my drift? So, I know your arrows are a nice colour but are they really right for the power of your bow or are you on the 'thin' side or the 'rod' side.

Now we get to the 'fletched / unfletched' argument! Some say that you never shoot an unfletched arrow! I suppose that's true BUT if we accept my initial claim that the arrow gets a big boot up the rear end then the unfletched arrow may give a clue exactly how well the arrow is launched? Look at it this way! What exactly do the fletchings do? Look pretty? Spin the arrow for stability? Make 'farting' noises when they come loose from the shaft OR provide stability while in flight? Say we could set up the bow / arrow combination to need the minimum of 'in-flight' stability, so the fletchings had the MINIMUM to do, then when the weather turns 'difficult' the fletchings would then be able to work to assist your shot without becoming overpowered? Thus you still shoot reasonably well when the weather isn't to your liking? I'm not saying you shoot as WELL as the good days, only that your equipment works WITH you as opposed to just working!

Where exactly do you start with all this mumbo-jumbo?

Nocking point! If it's low you may be able to get extra distance but it's similar to 'slicing' the ball in golf. The energy isn't allowed to go into the shaft perfectly straight so the arrow CANNOT fly straight. The same applies to the 'button' setting. Too far one way or the other and the same condition will apply. It CANNOT fly straight. Imagine now, exactly what you're expecting of the fletchings? Good weather, no basic arrow matching done, fletchings working like mad to straighten up the arrow! Bad weather, fletchings overpowered. It just makes you lose heart!

Another thing. 'Bow Tuning' suggests that you set the bow up and 'Shazam' it's brilliant. Not so! Not only do you have to consider if your arrow is capable of being a match to your bow, and also that your knocking point and button pressure are close enough to give your fletchings a chance of helping you, you also have to consider your own shooting ability!

If your 'loose' is erratic, more so on lower poundage bows, or your bow cannot respond due to being gripped too tightly, PROBABLY the energy which the limbs have stored will not all go into the 'Big Backside Boot'! In that case your 38lbs on your fingertips, which you probably calculated so carefully when buying your arrows, will end up as 34lbs or less getting into the arrow. You haven't shot an arrow and the arrow chart looks wrong! The arrow behaves 'stiff' and someone probably suggests you 'tune' the bow!

The following are my suggestions:

Accept that the more refined your technique and control becomes the more 'available' bow limb energy you will be able to transfer into the arrow by 'the big boot'. Your 'loose' will be smoother and straighter, your grip more relaxed.

Accept that initially you may not be able to get perfect 'arrow matching' because too many things effect the energy and direction of thrust from 'the big boot'. 'Nocking' point, 'centre shot', and you!

Accept that your equipment may not allow you to match one to another. 'Arrow charts' tend to be based on 'static' spine whereas in shooting an arrow it's 'dynamic' spine that is in action. A button can only do so much! It cannot turn a length of straw into a perfectly spined gold bound arrow! Have some fun, don't always listen to 'experts' and only spend enough time on arrow matching to get the best you can for your ability. As you improve look again at your 'matching' adjustments as they may become more and more relevant to your scores.

and THAT'S why I HATE the term 'bow tuning'.